In Praise of Elderflowers

Around the corner from our house the elder bushes are coming into full flower – a sure sign that summer is finally arriving. A native to Europe, North America and parts of Asia, probably the best known species is Sambucus nigra, or European elder, a shrub or small tree reaching a height and width of around five meters (16 feet). Widespread across the UK, it is very commonly found in woodland, scrub, wasteland and along hedgerows. Largely taken for granted as a ‘weed tree’ nowadays, it’s a plant associated with the managed landscape and is an indicator of human settlement. In past times it was considered a sacred tree and often planted beside dwellings to ward off evil spirits and bring good fortune, with severe consequences believed to befall anybody foolish enough to cut one down.

Elder is characterised by its short trunk, and grey-brown, corky, furrowed bark, and has relatively few branches. Despite its rather unpromising and bedraggled appearance during the winter months, and the unpleasant smell of its leaves when they appear at the beginning of the year (‘like old mice nests’ according to Richard Mabey), the creamy white elderflower blossom that forms around late May or early June is cheering to see and pleasantly fragrant. Handfuls can be eaten straight from the bush, or else made into a refreshing summer cordial by steeping them in diluted apple juice, or a lightly alcoholic ‘champagne’ (see recipe below). Elderberries follow later in the year and can be made into a jelly or added to apple or blackberry jams. They also make a very potent red wine, but are a powerful emetic so shouldn’t be eaten raw – I once devoured a handful straight from the bush and was violently throwing up a few minutes later, although suffered no other ill-effects once my stomach was purged. Birds appear to have no such problem and love to feed on the berries though: permaculturist Ken Fern of Plants for a Future even advocates planting elder bushes near your orchard or forest garden trees to keep our feathered friends happy and distract them away from your apple and pear crops.

The wood of the elder tree is lightweight with a soft corky pith that is easy to remove, making it popular for crafting and creating furniture and tools. The hollowed out stems can be made into wooden beads or flutes, and elder branches were also believed to have been used as piping in primitive plumbing systems. Elder sap also has insect-repellent properties – simply rub some crushed leaves over your arms and other exposed areas and the midges and other bugs won’t go near you. But your skin will be green and you might smell of old mice nests for the rest of the day…

Elder has a long medicinal history, and both elderflowers and elderberries have been traditionally used to treat a wide variety of ailments. In his 1977 publication Plants With A Purpose, Richard Mabey quotes the esteemed seventeenth-century gardener and diarist John Evelyn; “If the medicinal properties of the leaves, bark, berries, etc, were thoroughly known, I cannot tell what our countryman could aile for which he might not fetch a remedy from every hedge, either for sickness or wound… an extract [of elderberries] is not only efficacious to eradicate this epidemical inconvenience [scurvy] … but is a kind of catholicon against all infirmities whatever.”

Mabey also reproduces a recipe found in a 1640s herbal manual for a ‘mucilaginous anodyne liquor’ said to be effective against everything from toothache to the plague; “Of quick snails, newly taken out of their shelly cottages; of Elderberries dried in the oven; and pulverised; and of common salt, of each as much as you will put it in the straining bagg, called Hippocrates sleeve, making one row upon another, so oft as you  please; so that the first be of snails, the next of salt, and the last of  berries, continuing so till the bagg be full; hang it up in a Cellar, and gather diligently the glutinous liquor that distils out of it little by little.”

The efficacy of such snail-and-elderberry concoctions may sound dubious to twenty-first century sensibilities, but modern-day research and science backs up the elder’s reputation as a veritable plant medicine chest. It contains antioxidants like flavonoids, which support the immune system, whilst both elderflowers and elderberries are diuretics and can help with conditions like water retention, high blood pressure, and even cellulite. Elderflower extracts are also believed to have anti-inflammatory effects, making them useful in treating conditions like arthritis and inflammatory skin disorders. Elderberry Syrup is a popular remedy for colds and flu, often taken at the first sign of illness to help alleviate symptoms and speed recovery, whilst elderflower tea is often used to alleviate symptoms of hay fever, and seasonal allergies. The flowers are also believed to promote relaxation, reduce anxiety, and help with sleep. Elderflower has long been incorporated into skincare products due to its mild yet effective properties. It is often found in face toners, creams, lotions, and serums designed to soothe irritated skin, reduce redness, and promote a youthful appearance.

Here’s a little video I made back in 2011, a DIY guide to making your own Elderflower Champagne, with the recipe below…

Elderflower Champagne Recipe
A carrier bag full of elder blossom, i.e. around 15-20 good sized heads
700g (1.5 lb) sugar
4 lemons
White wine vinegar
6 litre (1.3 gallons) water

Select the best looking clusters of elderflower blossom, preferably on a bright sunny afternoon. Discard any that are looking a bit old – these won’t be fresh and will smell ‘mousey’. Bring 4 litres of water to the boil and pour into a scrupulously clean plastic fermenting bucket. Top up with a further 2 litres of cold water. There are now 6 litres of water in the bucket. Stir in the sugar, then add the blossom, trimming away as much of the stems as possible. Add 2 tbsp white wine vinegar plus juice and zest of 4 lemons. Stir well and cover with a lid. After a day or two the mixture should be fermenting, if it isn’t, add a sprinkling of wine yeast. You shouldn’t need to though as the blossom has its own natural yeast. Ferment for 4-5 days before straining off the liquid. Decant into strong bottles – those with ‘Grolsch’ style stoppers are ideal. Strong bottles with good seals are essential due to the build up of carbon dioxide during fermentation – which is what gives the drink its champagne like fizz! Stored in a cool dry place it should keep for several months – the other day I drank a bottle I made three years ago and it was still fine. Summer in a bottle!

Graham Burnett

Lots more seasonal recipes from wild foods can be found in The Vegan Boook of Permaculture by Graham Burnett – order your SIGNED copy today!